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The John Wick Suit: Behind Keanu Reeve's Iconic Look
Writer: TJ Editorial Team
John Wick’s suit is possibly the best display of sleek tailoring we’ve seen on film. Despite the iconic hitman enduring fast paced action throughout the franchise, he manages to leave viewers inspired with his dashing formality and sophistication.
Few costume ensembles have left the mark that suit has made, particularly on many gentlemen with an interest in fine tailoring.
The man behind the style? Luca Mosca, a renowned costume designer who is specifically “hired to design the outfits for films with sleek characters.”
Not a bad gig, and his resumè speaks for itself, tailoring suits for Harrison Ford, Gary Oldman, Denis Quaid and Dwayne Johnson.
But despite all of Mosca’s previous work, it’s kitting out Keanu Reeves in the black John Wick suit that is clearly some of his best work.
Luca Mosca: The Birth of John Wick's Black Suit
Mosca’s approach involves collaboration, working closely with director Chad Stahelski and Keanu himself to achieve the perfect fit. According to Mosca, the focus was on tailoring, ensuring the suits fit to perfection, especially since they needed to accommodate safety measures for intense stunts and fight scenes.
"My costume design process is based on collaboration with others... it had to fit to perfection!"
While the suits featured in the franchise may seem deceptively simple—mostly all-black and classically cut—Mosca reveals the depth of thought and refinement behind them.
Across the film series, he opts for upgrades rather than complete changes, progressing the iconic suit while maintaining its core template.
He emphasises the necessity of incorporating safety elements like pads and fabric gussets to withstand the demands of intense action scenes.
"They’re always an upgrade... a chance to ‘clean’ those initial suits even further."
The Illusion of Black Shades
Contrary to popular belief, John Wick’s suits are not pitch black; they are very dark shades of grey.
Mosca’s deliberate choice of colour creates a shadow effect, contributing to the character’s mysterious aura. Despite the monochromatic theme, Mosca introduces subtle yet powerful details, such as vividly coloured cufflinks, to add interest and sophistication.
“Because of the film lighting and the exposure on dark night scenes, eyes can often be misled with the darkest shades of fabrics. This meant we had to make most of Keanu’s suits dark shades of grey, rather than black.”
"They do look black...eyes can often be misled with the darkest of fabrics."
The suit is a tailored three-piece in black (Dark grey), featuring notched lapels, flap pockets, four-button cuffs, and a double-buttoned front.
Mosca’s obsession with tailoring, combined with the craftsmanship of the Italian fashion house Brioni, brings forth a style that embodies simplicity and elegance.
"It is a lack of entertainment, a lack of embellishment, a lack of pattern and color."
“There are many features and secrets built into the suits,” Mosca states. “As Keanu performs many stunts, safety always comes first. I often had to allow room for padding and protection within the suits for specific stunts or fight scenes.”
Mosca was also committed to expressing Wick’s personality through his accessories.
“I wanted to keep the outfits clean and simple,” Mosca mentions, “that way, the small touches of cufflinks or a tie bar would really stand out. As an example, in the second film, Keanu’s cufflinks were a vivid red – almost invisible, but an incredibly powerful detail.”
“To complete the look, I chose a Carl F Bucherer watch – the Manero Autodate – as it represented simple yet beautiful tones. This incredibly elegant and clean watch completed the perfect look for John Wick’s suit.”
Crafting Costumes for Action
The dynamic action sequences in John Wick films pose unique challenges for costume designers.
With grappling, knife fights, and chokeholds, the suits undergo tremendous stress. Mosca’s team tackles this by creating multiples of identical costumes for different stages, meticulously preserving continuity and ensuring each costume serves its purpose in the narrative.
"To produce 20 shirts with the same puncture wounds and blood splatter for a specific sequence, our team works with a template."
Dressing Like the Baba Yaga: How to Mirror John Wick's Style
Achieving John Wick’s sleek style may seem challenging, given the custom nature of his suits.
While the exact movie costume suit is not available to the public, the key lies in embracing clean lines, premium fabrics, and the right fit. Recommendations for a black slim-fit suit, a dark blue shirt, leather shoes, and carefully selected accessories provide a blueprint for anyone aiming to emulate the Baba Yaga’s sophistication.
"The time is right to see clean, minimalist, sharp suits back in the limelight."
From the iconic three-piece suit to the subtle details that escape the audience’s notice, every element contributes to the mystique of John Wick, making him not just a formidable assassin but a style icon for the ages.