One of the greatest trilogies we’ve ever seen, none other than Francis Ford Coppola’s “The Godfather”, takes us on a wild journey of power, greed and great men’s fashion.
Set against the backdrop of post-war America and spanning through the 1950s and beyond, the films do an incredible job at crafting the wardrobes of its characters to reflect their personalities, status, and the evolving eras they inhabited. From Don Vito to Michael, the Italian tailoring is seen throughout the entire series in the form of bespoke suits to dress down coats.
How the "Godfather Suit" Influenced a Generation
The Godfather’s fashion impact goes beyond movies, making a lasting impression on men’s fashion and popular culture. Even years later, it still inspires designers, influencers, and fans, shaping how classic men’s style is seen today.
The crew use subtle clues and visual ideas to make viewers feel more connected, focusing on real clothes from that time and choices that fit each character’s story sets a high standard in movie clothes, affecting how other filmmakers and fashion fans see things. It’s a perfectly authentic representation of 1940s and 50s mens fashion, clean suits, neat haircuts and high-waisted pants.
Don Vito Corleone
Marlon Brando’s (and Robert De Niro’s) Don Vito Corleone is head of the Corleone crime family. Throughout the series, Don Vito wears his statement suits in a powerful manner, often being the best dressed in the room. It’s obvious his wardrobe is a reflection of his status and the powerful figure he is in the world organised crime during 1940s and 1950s America.
- Three-Piece Suits: Don Vito is often seen in impeccably tailored three-piece suits, with the feature piece being the waistcoat, creating a sense of power that surrounds him.
- Fedora Hats: His signature fedora hats add a touch of old-world charm and authority to his ensemble, symbolising his role as a respected leader
- Neutral Colours: He prefers classic, neutral colours like dark shades of grey, black, and navy.
- Attention to Detail: Every aspect of Don Vito’s attire, from his cufflinks to his tie pins, is meticulously chosen to convey his status and attention to detail.
Michael Corleone
A young Al Pacino plays the role of Michael Corleone, a man that goes through significant transformation in both a character and fashion sense. He begins the trilogy as a reluctant outsider and turns into the ruthless leader we love seeing on screen. His fashion clearly becomes more refined and like his Fathers’ as his personality evolves.
- Military Uniforms: Initially seen in military uniforms during World War II, Michael’s early attire reflects his distance from the family’s criminal activities and his desire for independence.
- Tailored Suits: As Michael becomes more involved in the family business, his wardrobe shifts to tailored suits that symbolise his growing power and authority.
- Dark Colours: His clothing choices often feature dark, sombre colours such as deep blues and charcoal greys, a nod to the traditional dark, villainous characterisation.
- Progressive Style: Unlike his father’s traditionalism, Michael’s fashion sense evolves with the times, blending classic Italian tailoring with a contemporary edge that befits his role as a modern-day crime boss.
Sonny Corleone
Sonny Corleone, portrayed by James Caan, shows off a more flamboyant and aggressive style compared to his father and younger brother. As the hot-headed eldest son of Don Vito, Sonny’s fashion choices are a reflection of his impulsive and bold personality.
- Bold Patterns: Sonny favours bold pinstripes and chequered patterns in his suits, reflecting his assertive nature and willingness to stand out.
- Double-Breasted Suits: He often opts for double breasted suits, giving a timeless and structured look.
- Casual Elegance: Outside of formal settings, Sonny opts for casual yet stylish attire, often seen in open-collar shirts and leather jackets.
- Gold Jewellery: His accessories include flashy gold jewellery, such as rings and chains, a staple for early 20th century fashion.
Tom Hagen
Tom Hagen, played by Robert Duvall, serves as the consigliere (advisor) to the Corleone family, taking care of the legal side of business with loyalty and discretion. His fashion choices reflect his role as a trusted, unnoticed advisor and the adopted son of Don Vito Corleone.
- Classic Business Attire: Tom is often seen in impeccably tailored business suits that boast professionalism and reliability, essential traits for his role as the family’s legal counsel.
- Subdued Colours: He prefers muted and understated colours like charcoal grey and olive green, which still remain in favour for the modern day-suit wearer.
- Minimalist Accessories: Tom’s accessories are minimalistic yet elegant, such as simple tie pins and cufflinks. Wearing these accessories adds an extra dimension to an otherwise simplistic suit.
- Versatile Wardrobe: His wardrobe seamlessly transitions between formal meetings with business associates and intimate discussions within the Corleone family. His small range of fashion decisions are perfect for someone who needs to go unnoticed.
Connie Corleone
Talia Shire plays Connie Corleone, representing the feminine side of the family and undergoes personal and subtle transformations throughout the trilogy.
- Elegant Dresses: In her youth, Connie is often seen in glamorous dresses that reflect the fashion trends of the 1940s and 1950s. Being the youngest member of the family, she can easily get away with her youthful sense of style.
- Family Affiliation: Her wardrobe choices also subtly nod to her familial ties, with occasional hints of traditional Italian-American influences in her attire.
- Symbolic Jewellery: Connie’s jewellery, such as pearl earrings and delicate necklaces, symbolises her femininity and occasional attempts to assert her independence within the confines of the family’s patriarchal structure.
Style Takeaways
Now that we’ve dissected the individual fashion choices of each leading character, here’s how to add a touch of mobster style to your wardrobe.
The Three-Piece Suit
The three-piece suit is a key part of gangster fashion. It’s seen in movies like “Goodfellas” and “Peaky Blinders,” and “The Godfather” uses it in many important scenes. Don Vito Corleone often wears one when doing serious business and Michael’s fashion evolves to that of the three-piece suit.To get this look, try a classic black suit from Hugo Boss, or a pinstripe suit from Ralph Lauren.
The 'Authoritative' Overcoat
Al Pacino is not very tall, but his character, Michael Corleone, looks bigger thanks to his wardrobe. A good overcoat can make you look larger. Try a structured coat from Thom Sweeney or a navy double-breasted coat from Hawes and Curtis.
Statement Frames for Strong Identity
“The Godfather” uses bold eyewear to make characters stand out. Fredo Corleone and Moe Greene have memorable glasses that give them a unique look. Choose retro shades to replicate this look.
Long-Point Collars
Collars are important in “The Godfather.” Sonny Corleone wears soft, rounded collars, and Don Vito wears a wing-tip collar. But the long-point collar is the most striking. It adds a sharp look to the characters.
Textured Tailoring for Off-Duty Looks
One of the best outfits in “The Godfather” is Michael Corleone’s casual look: a button-down shirt, striped tie, and corduroy blazer. This Ivy League-inspired look shows how textured fabrics can improve your casual wear. Try a tweed blazer from Hackett or a corduroy blazer from Boglioli.
