Patek Philippe have introduced the Cubitus collection, a bold continuation of the brand’s exploration of shaped sport watches, and their first release in 25 years. Much like its predecessors, the Nautilus from 1976 and the Aquanaut from 1997, the Cubitus sparked a mix of excitement and scepticism among collectors.
As with anything new in the world of high-end horology, reactions were mixed, some fans immediately embraced the collection, while others had reservations. We polled our audience over on instagram and 67% agreed it was a miss from the prestigious watchmaker.
However, the Cubitus marks a significant moment for Patek Philippe, strongly representing the brand’s willingness to step outside its comfort zone and challenge traditional designs.
Here’s how the new watch fits into their portfolio and what makes it so dividing.
Patek Philippe has released their first collection in 25 years / Hodinkee
A Brief History of Shaped Sport Watches at Patek Philippe
The Cubitus is the latest in a lineage of shaped sport watches that began nearly 50 years ago with the launch of the Nautilus. At the time, the Nautilus was a departure from the classic round dress watches Patek Philippe was known for. With its distinctive porthole-shaped case and integrated bracelet, the Nautilus birthed a new era of luxury sports watches.
Fast forward to 1997, and Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut, another shaped sports watch, this time with a more youthful, modern design. It features a rounded octagonal case and rubber strap, appealing to a new generation of collectors.
Now, with the Cubitus, the brand takes yet another bold step. This new collection is square in shape, an aesthetic choice that certainly isn’t for everyone. But let’s not forget that the same concerns surrounded the Nautilus and Aquanaut when they were first released, and today they’re among the most iconic and sought after pieces in the world.
“Well, since a long time, I really always wanted to have a square watch in the collection,” said Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe.
“It’s not easy, as 85% of the watches around the world are round. And, since I was quite young, I always challenged myself to say, ‘I need to have also a beautiful square watch in the collection.’ So that’s how we started, actually.”
Comparing the new Cubitus with the Nautilus / Hodinkee
The Cubitus Collection: A Closer Look
The Cubitus collection consists of three main models, each with its unique features but unified by the square case design.
1. Cubitus 5812/1A-001 (Stainless Steel)
- Dimensions: 45mm x 44.9mm
- Dial: Green with matching case
- Bracelet: Stainless steel with micro-adjust folding clasp
- Price: $41,250 USD
This model features a green dial that Thierry Stern is particularly fond of. The colour is the same shade used in the highly sought-after green dial Nautilus, and it’s likely to be the most coveted version of the new Cubitus lineup.
2. Cubitus 5812/1AR-001 (Two-Tone Steel and Rose Gold)
- Dimensions: 45mm x 44.9mm
- Dial: Blue with a two-tone case
- Bracelet: Matching steel and rose gold with micro-adjust folding clasp
- Price: $61,280 USD
Dubbed the “dandy model” by Stern, this two-tone watch brings a playful elegance to the collection. Some collectors might have preferred a solid gold version, but the steel and rose gold combination adds versatility.
3. Cubitus 5822P-001 (Platinum)
- Dimensions: 45mm x 44.9mm, 9.6mm thick
- Dial: Blue with a grand date, day, and moonphase
- Bracelet: Composite fabric strap
- Price: $88,380 USD
The 5822P is the collection’s halo piece, featuring a complex new movement that showcases Patek Philippe’s technical mastery. However, its asymmetrical dial design has raised some eyebrows among enthusiasts.
Aesthetics and Design: Bold Choices that Lead to Dividing Results
The controversial release has a clear frontrunner – the green dial 5812 – which stands out as the fan favourite, echoing the success of the green Nautilus. The two-tone model is a fun addition to the lineup, though some might wish for a more traditional gold version.
The 5822P, on the other hand, has garnered criticism for its dial layout. The asymmetry, while not uncommon in Patek Philippe’s designs (think the 5712 Nautilus), feels less balanced in this model. The four different-sized hour markers from four to eight o’clock disrupt the harmony, leaving some collectors wanting more.
Why the Cubitus Matters
Despite any critiques, the Cubitus collection will undoubtedly sell out. Here’s why:
- Family Ties: The Cubitus fits seamlessly into Patek Philippe’s lineage of sport watches. While its design is a departure from the round shapes of the past, it retains the DNA of the brand.
- Quality Craftsmanship: As expected from Patek Philippe, the watches boast impeccable craftsmanship. From the movement to the case construction, every detail is meticulously executed.
- Demand: In today’s watch market, new Patek Philippe releases are highly sought after, and the Cubitus will be no exception. Collectors will snap these up as soon as they hit the shelves.
The Cubitus and the Future of Patek Philippe
During the launch event, Thierry Stern shared some fascinating insights about the future of the Cubitus and Patek Philippe. The collection is already designed through 2039, indicating that Patek Philippe sees this as a long-term addition to its portfolio.
Stern also revealed that his son, who was in attendance at the event, is beginning his apprenticeship within the company, continuing the family legacy. The future of Patek Philippe remains in the hands of the Stern family, and collectors can rest assured that the brand will stay true to its roots.
Final Thoughts
The Patek Philippe Cubitus is a bold, polarising collection that has already sparked debate among collectors. But like the Nautilus and Aquanaut before it, this watch is sure to find its place in the hearts of watch collectors and enthusiasts.
What’s to Like:
- The collection feels instantly part of the Patek Philippe family.
- Impressive dial, movement, case, and bracelet construction.
- The green dial 5812 is a clear standout.
- The use of updated, self-winding movements in the 5821 and innovative calibers in the 5822.
- Genuine pride from the Patek Philippe team in the product launch.
What’s to Dislike:
- Pricing feels slightly high, particularly for the steel 5821.
- The dial design of the 5822P could benefit from more refinement.
- The manual pushers on the 5822P feel outdated for a watch in this price range.
- Lack of interchangeable straps across the range.
- The movement isn’t shaped, which would have been a nice touch for a square watch.
Ultimately, whether you love or hate the design, the Cubitus will sell out instantly. It’s a testament to Patek Philippe’s enduring appeal and the demand for their timepieces.
And for those who love shaped, sporty watches, its the perfect addition to your luxury watch collection.