Hollywood in the ’50s was full of big names and bigger egos and everyone wanted to be the next Monroe or Mansfield. Vikki Dougan, born Edith Tooker, didn’t bother, and took a unique approach to 1950s Hollywood, and it was then that the famous backless dress photo was created.
Unlike her contemporaries who emphasised cleavage, Dougan put the focus on her back, earning her nickname “The Back”. It was a deliberate and strategic choice by her publicist, Milton Weiss, who came up with the idea and commissioned backless dresses to set her apart in a crowded industry.
She wore dresses cut so low that heads turned, and it was enough to get her through career doors that talent alone couldn’t get you through. Gaining massive attention from both photographers and the public got her on the cover of magazines which would propel her acting and modelling career.
One of the more recognised of these was in 1957, when Ralph Crane photographed her for LIFE Magazine, producing images that perfectly showcased her daring style and mark on the fashion industry.
“Even if you’re a trained actress, it’s not easy to get started in Hollywood. But now people know who I am—because my identity has been established.”
Aside from acting, she spent her early years designing a lot of her own wardrobe. She often opted with black over bold colours, clean cuts over frills, and even designed her own bathing suits.
She even caught the attention of Dior, who added a backless gown to his collection after seeing her in a French magazine.
“I used to be a dancer,” she said once, “and I think that helped develop my back and improve my posture.”
Her influence extended beyond fashion, as many believe Dougan inspired the animated character Jessica Rabbit, known for her sultry appearance and backless red dress.
Despite the famous backless dress, Dougan’s film career remained modest. She appeared in several movies but never achieved the Monroe or McQueen level of stardom. Her message is a nod to individuality in an era designed for conformity.
