Don Draper and the Art of Sharp Suits

Writer: TJ Editorial Team

The 1960s corporate world was full of men in sharp suits, and Don Draper wasn’t an exception to this norm. But the Mad Men lead refined that standard, cycling through neatly tailored suits varying from pinstripes to charcoal. 

Narrow ties and slim lapels asserted his boardroom presence while softer fabrics like wool and flannel allowed him to move comfortably while on the go.

All in all, Draper had one of the best wardrobe ensembles we’ve seen on the big screen. Here are some of our favourites he sported.

The Classic

The go-to suit of choice for Don Draper is a classic suit. This favours a slim, tailored cut that fits close to the body and is comfortable for long office days. Jackets were always structured at the shoulders and slightly nipped at the waist.

Preferred colours were neutral, charcoal greys, navy and muted browns took over his wardrobe. He occasionally wore lighter greys for the summer and darker greens for variety.

Fabrics were an important consideration, all of which were classic. Wool flannel and worsted wool for everyday wear, tweed for autumn and winter, and lighter tropical wools for hot weather.

Draper’s attention to fabric ensured that his suits wore perfectly, a pretty important detail that made him stand out in a pre-stretch era of tailoring.

Suit Choices for Occasions

One thing the character did very well was pick the right suit, for the right occasion. For the office or client meetings he wore solid dark suits with white or pale blue sirts, often paired with a slim conservative tie.

Grey flannel was another go-to, handy for both winter months and professional settings. On less formal days, a navy suit with a lighter shirt was the go to, giving modern and approachable impressions whilst looking damn sharp.

Evening events called for darker suits, often black, paired with a silk tie and patent leather shoes. For casual or off-duty occasions, he sported casual jackets, sporty coats and knitwear with trousers that were tailored.

Patterns, Fabrics and Textures

While most of Draper’s suits were solid colours, he occasionally wore subtle patterns. Thin pinstripes, small houndstooth or checks added some depth to his wardrobe and should be considered for variety in your suit rotation.

Tweeds and flannels gave texture for colder seasons while summer suits leaned on lighter and much smoother fabrics.

Ties, Shoes and Accessories

So many men tend to underestimate the power of tie variation. It’s important to have plain colours, patterns, and fabrics that differ from one another. Draper favours slim ties, geometric patterns or simple stripes with tie bars. The goal here is proportion and balance, so that it compliments the suit without distracting the look.

His shoes were mostly leather oxfords in black or brown, polished of course. Nothing overly exciting here but a staple for corporate life. Accessories were often minimal, with cufflinks and watches the two standouts, often sporting a Jaeger Le-Coultre, Rolex Explorer and Omega.

Casual Attire

Beyond the man’s impressive variety of suits, his casual style still deserves some attention. Out of office he remains sharply dressed, button down shirts, often with subtle patterns, paired with flat-front trousers or tailored chinos were common and lightweight sport coats or sweaters made appearances in the colder months.

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