The waistcoat has been around for centuries, shifting from a status symbol to an everyday essential. It started as a sign of wealth, worn by aristocrats with lavish embroidery and fine fabrics. If you weren’t wearing one in the 18th century, you probably weren’t important. But fashion moves fast. By the 20th century, the waistcoat was fading, seen as outdated and unnecessary.
Then came the revival. Rebels, rock stars, and style-conscious men brought it back, proving it wasn’t just for formal suits. Today, it’s one of the most versatile pieces in a man’s wardrobe, smart enough for business, relaxed enough for a night out.
Here’s why you need a waistcoat.
L: The waistcoat was a wardrobe staple for Steve McQueen R: A young Al Pacino in ‘The Godfather’
Where the Waistcoat Originated
The waistcoat’s origins trace back to the 17th century. King Charles II of England introduced it as part of proper dress, aiming to promote English fashion distinct from French styles. Initially, waistcoats were elaborate, featuring rich fabrics and intricate embroidery. Over time, their design evolved, becoming shorter and more fitted by the 19th century. They often emphasised a cinched waist, especially during the 1820s when corsetry was in vogue.
Decline in Popularity
In contemporary fashion, waistcoats are less commonly worn daily. Several factors contribute to this decline. The rise of casual dress codes in workplaces has reduced the demand for formal three-piece suits. Additionally, the perception of waistcoats as outdated or overly formal deters some men from incorporating them into their attire.
5 Rules When Wearing a Waistcoat
A waistcoat can elevate a man’s style, but wearing one correctly requires following certain guidelines. Here are five essential rules to ensure you wear one with confidence and class.
1. Leave the Bottom Button Undone
One of the most well-known rules of wearing a waistcoat is to leave the bottom button undone. This tradition dates back to King Edward VII, who found buttoning the bottom too restrictive due to his growing waistline. Since then, it has become a standard practice in menswear. Beyond tradition, this rule serves a practical purpose—it prevents the waistcoat from bunching up when you sit down and ensures a comfortable fit. When fully buttoned, it can look overly tight and unflattering, making the wearer appear stiff rather than sophisticated.
2. Stick to Neutral Colours
When choosing a waistcoat, neutral colours like black, navy, grey, or beige are the best choices for versatility. These shades allow the waistcoat to blend seamlessly with different outfits and occasions. Flashy or overly bright colors can make it challenging to pair with other clothing items and may come across as garish rather than stylish.
3. Collar Up
Waistcoats with a defined collar add an extra touch of refinement compared to those without. A collar frames the shirt and tie better, creating a structured and polished appearance. Without a collar, it can sometimes look too casual or incomplete. If you’re opting for a formal look, a waistcoat with a structured collar is a must.
4. Go Slim
The fit is crucial. A waistcoat should be slim-fitting but not overly tight. It should sit comfortably against the torso without creating creases or pulling at the buttons. If it’s baggy it can make an outfit look sloppy, while one that’s too tight can be uncomfortable and unflattering.
5. Be Versatile
While traditionally worn as part of a three-piece suit, waistcoats can also be styled in various modern ways. They can be paired with jeans for a smart-casual look, layered over a turtleneck in winter, or worn open for a more relaxed feel. The key is to experiment while keeping the overall look balanced.
Our Picks
RALPH LAUREN
Striped Herringbone Notch-Lapel Gilet
$980
TOM FORD
Five button vest in wool
$1,350
MARKS & SPENCER
Check Waistcoat
$115
Style Inspiration from Waistcoats on Film
The Man From U.N.C.L.E
The James Bond Franchise
