The Comeback of Small Watches

Writer: TJ Editorial Team

For most of the last century, men’s watches were small.

30 to 36mm was normal, and larger case sizes typically fell under the ‘utility’ banner reserved for divers and pilots.

This changed in the late 90s and early 00s, when case sizes crept up and sport watches became everyday wear rather than purpose built. Rolex Submariners and Omega Seamaster’s led the charge, moving up to 40mm and beyond to set the new standard of what men should be wearing. But in recent years, everyday wearers have been switching back to and appreciating the small watches of a bygone era.

From Cartier Tanks to Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso’s, these are the small watches making a comeback in 2026.

Article Contents:

Cartier Tank

This watch needs no introduction. Created in 1917, it was inspired by the Renault FT-17 military tanks used in World War I, which explains its rectangular case rather than the usual circular shape. Designed for both men and women from the outset, it became a cult classic and remains one of the most popular small watches today. It never really went out of style, appearing on everyone from sports figures to movie stars to everyday people with very good taste.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Another obvious inclusion. Rectangular, slim, designed in the 1930s and never truly redesigned since. The reversible case, originally created to protect the dial during polo matches, has since become its defining feature, often hiding engravings or personal messages on the reverse. It sits flat on the wrist and works particularly well with tailored clothing. The smaller case sizes, around 38 x 24mm, are the ones that still feel right.

Wayne JLC

Frank Muller Cintrée Curvex

Franck Muller is another name returning to the conversation. The curved case and elongated shape give the watch presence on the wrist without relying on a large diameter. Inspired by 1930s Art Deco design, it also revived the now-rare curved movement architecture. Ben Affleck is a notable wearer, often opting for the 25mm stainless steel version with a white dial.

Hamilton Boulton

The Boulton has quietly existed alongside the Tank for decades. Smaller in proportion but sharing the same Art Deco roots, it’s a solid entry point into the world of small-case vintage-inspired watches.

Cartier Santos

Another Cartier, and for good reason. More versatile than the Tank, the Santos sits neatly on the wrist with its small square case and integrated bracelet. Designed in 1904, it’s widely regarded as the first modern wristwatch for men. That it remains so relevant today says everything about its design. Inspired by the geometry of the Eiffel Tower, it’s often spotted on the likes of Jake Gyllenhaal, Tom Hiddleston, and Sebastian Stan. One that still makes sense in 2026.

Orient “Fuori Verso”

Orient Watch Small

Often referred to as the Orient ‘Dent’, this vintage-style mechanical watch takes inspiration from the Cartier Crash. It’s a favourite among collectors who value compact proportions and rarity, particularly as the model has since been discontinued.

Breitling Chronometer

AB Small Brietling

Even brands usually associated with larger watches have strong smaller references in their history. Early Breitling chronometers and Chronomat models from the mid-20th century were compact by design, built for pilots and engineers, and sit comfortably on the wrist today without feeling dated. But it’s this Breitling Top Time B31 worn by Austin Butler that is part of the small watch comeback, sitting at 38mm.

Vintage Small Watches

The idea that men need large watches is relatively recent. Until the 1970s, anything above 37mm was considered big. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak launched at 39mm in 1972 and was described at the time as oversized, with Omega Seamasters, Rolex Submariners, GMTs, and many others following suit in the years that followed.

So when choosing a watch for the day, or adding one to your collection, it’s worth looking back. A vintage or pre-1970s-inspired piece that sits smaller on the wrist often feels better proportioned, easier to wear, and harder to date. The small watch comeback doesn’t need much convincing.

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